The fear of paved roads
Sundays are for house cleaning at home. Had me sifting through old books and journals, flicking through a series of entries from my time in Thailand. Got pulled in and caught off guard - warmer days, good food, the perfect read for a rainy, windy, chilly day in London. Conversations with myself on bike trips that I make a point to write down but rarely revisit. Over the years, moving from flat to flat, the journals stay with me - lonely, unread. Figured it would be good motivation to write something up, share an experience, relive it somehow.
Last January, I squeezed in a 3-week solo trip to Thailand in between jobs. Having already had the chance to travel to various off-the-beaten-path destinations, Thailand was never really on my list. Living in the UK, you are constantly reminded of full moon parties, elephant rides, how many people flock there to party, get high or find younger partners, Khao San Road, eating insects for novelty. None of which appealed to me. Despite all the 'red flags', I was at home cold, craving a warm adventure and Thailand was the only place that I could get to for a not so crazy price given the 2 week notice. And after some research I found the Lanna Kingdom route on bikepacking.com that Sam & Nu put together. I was conflicted but sold, the ticket was booked.
The plan was to ride around the 450km route from Chiang Mai and then freewheel my way back to Bangkok with whatever time I had left. Arrived in CM by night, bike packed up in my trusty cardboard box. CM is a cool city - great cycling culture, roadies all over the place, leafy climbs, good coffee. All very tempting, but I had a plan: get over my jet lag and get on the road.
Leaving Chiang Mai in the early hours to avoid the swarms of motorbikes was a godsend. Straight onto gravel roads, flying past small towns, rice paddies, noodle shops. Wasn't hungry, so not stopping... yet.
The valley tightened after a few hours of riding and things began to get serious. I started to get a feeling for what I had signed up for - Thai roads. Growing up in the Alps, I'm no newcomer to long climbs. Climbs in Thailand weren't high or long, but they only go one way: straight up. We're talking 20 to 25 percent every time. With varying weather conditions, they tend to pave the steepest sections to avoid landslides. Generally with a loaded bike you start to crave tarmac after a few days off-road. Not on this trip - I was hit with paved road anxiety.
Spent the night at Pings homestay where I shared a feast of local food with Duncan and Sam (the route builder). A wonderful break after a few days solo. The next morning I set off for 50km of smooth mountain gravel - beautiful forests, rivers, and towns - to end up in a small homestay where I was cooked three hefty portions of pad thai. The next morning, again early, I left to climb the Doi Dam where I set up camp. Ended up having an impromptu party at the summit with some locals - beers and whiskey sodas on the house - before catching one of the most beautiful sunset and sunrise combos I've seen.
My ride down into Pai on some champagne gravel was chef's kiss, stopped in the beautiful town of Mueang Noi where I had some fried fish, sticky rice and mango. Stared at by locals with what seemed like amazement or fear - wasn't too sure which.
Pai gave me a taste of the Thailand I'd heard about - parties, mushrooms, the lads. I was tired and needed rest, so I avoided most of the social scene but also made the most of being on my feet rather than on the saddle.
A few days went by and it was time to say goodbye to the few friends I'd made in town. The route followed the valley downriver but not for long - sharp turn onto what started as a road climb, then turned into a jungle trail. River crossings, mud, more crossings. Exactly what I needed after lazying around on five noodle dishes a day. The rivers dried my chain so hard it sounded like metal on chalkboard. I flagged down a passing motorbike to ask for any lube or oil and they confidently suggested motor oil. With so much more climbing ahead, I accepted the offer. That decision cost me a new chain later on in the trip.
I put my head down and ate up the 1000m climb through small villages and banana plantations, pushed my bike to the top where I met some builders. They suggested I set up camp around the corner from theirs so we could share dinner around the fire. What sounded like a sweet local experience turned into a fierce drinking competition on Thai moonshine.
Feeling surprisingly fresh, I rode off early and quietly so I wouldn't wake the friends I'd made the night before, who had clearly reached the bottom of those bottles. The cycle rolled on a wide off-road track. I caught a view of Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest mountain, as I rode into Pa Pae where I had a nice conversation with a shop owner along with two Thai omelettes. The rest of the ride was mainly on tarmac - a huge climb again through jungle, very sweaty but shaded. I got waves and smiles the whole way (everyone smiles in rural Thailand, it's crazy). Around midday my path joined a larger regional road leading back into the Chiang Mai valley. For me, I headed up north, but that finished the Lanna Kingdom route.
The route showed me a Thailand I never knew existed. Far from the party scene I'd dreaded, this was Thailand at its most generous and wild. For anyone looking for a remote 6 to 10 day adventure, have a look at the route or reach out to Sam or Nun.
All pics were shot on my trusty point and shoot film camera. Excuse the grain! ;)